How to water new turfgrass. (SOD)

tuckturf on July 31, 2024

How To Water New Turfgrass Sod

Proper watering techniques are a critical aspect of lawn watering, equal in importance to the issues of when to water, and how much to water. Here are several key factors to consider when watering your new turfgrass sod:

Avoid hand sprinkling because it cannot provide the necessary uniformity, as most people do not have the patience, time, or “eye” to adequately measure what is being applied across any larger areas of lawn. The only possible exception to this guideline would be the need to syringe the surface of the grass to cool it, or to provide additional water near buildings or other heat-reflecting surfaces.

Understand the advantages and disadvantages of different sprinkler designs the type of sprinkler that you select will determine proper use.

In-Ground Systems require professional design and installation and they require routine adjustments and regular maintenance to be most effective and efficient. The greatest mistake made with most in-ground systems is the “set it and forget it” philosophy that fails to account for the changing seasonal water requirements to maximize turf grown or even allowing the system to operate during or following a multi-inch rain storm. Another frequent problem is when heads get out of alignment and apply water to the sidewalk, street or house siding, rather than to the lawn.

Hose-End Sprinklers range in complexity, cost and durability, but are highly portable and can provide uniform and consistent coverage, when properly placed on the yard and adequately maintained.

Sprinklers that do not throw the water high into the air are usually more efficient because prevailing winds are less disruptive of distribution patterns, the potential for evaporation loss is reduced and trees, shrubs and other plants do not block the pattern (or are very noticeable if they do).

Several times during the growing/watering season, routine maintenance to check for blocked outlets, leaking or missing gaskets, or misaligned sprinkler heads is important, regardless of the sprinkler design.

Select sprinklers and systems for uniformity of coverage across whatever area they are designed to water. Inexpensive hose-end sprinklers and in-ground irrigation systems can provide uniform coverage, but they can also be extremely variable and inconsistent in their coverage patterns.

Verify watering uniformity can be accomplished with a very simple and inexpensive method that uses only 4 to 6 flat-bottomed, straight-sided cans (tuna fish, cat food, etc.), a ruler and a watch.

FOLLOW THESE STEPS:

Step 1
Arrange the cans at random distances away from any sprinkler, but all within the area you assume is being covered;

Step 2
Run the sprinkler for a specific amount of time, say a half-hour OR run the water until a specific amount of water is in at least one can, say a 1.5 cm (0.5 inches)

Step 3
Measure the amount of water in each can, checking for uniformity. Some variation is expected, but if there is a difference of 10% or more between any two cans replace or adjust the sprinkler or relocate the system. Use this same technique when you are dealing with slopes on your property as well. This measuring method should also be used across an entire lawn that has an in-ground irrigation system to assure maximum coverage and uniformity.

Watering difficult areas such as slopes and under or near trees requires some special attention to achieve the maximum benefit resulting in a beautiful lawn. You need to know the water requirements for the specific trees, as well as for the grass. Despite having deep “anchor” roots, trees take up moisture and nutrients from the top six inches of soil…the same area as the grass. Trees and turf will compete for water. Watering sufficiently for the grass may over-water some varieties of trees and under-water others. A common solution is to not plant grass under the drip-line of trees, but rather use that area for perennial ground covers, flowerbeds or mulch beds.

Why is My New Sod Turning Brown? Causes + How to Save and Revive It

tuckturf on July 15, 2024

Dryness, dead spots and discoloration, and thinning are the last things to expect from a newly installed sod. But what does brown spots on your recently established sod mean? Wondering what the problem could be? Or how can you fix it?

New sod can turn brown due to poor installation, pest infestation, soil compaction, and inadequate water. Excess application of nitrogenous fertilizer, lack of nutrients, and premature mowing are also culprits. Identify the cause first to help save and revive sod through watering, aeration, skipping, correct height mowing and applying appropriate fungicides and pesticides.

n this blog article, I’ve gone through the causes of new sod-turning brown, ways of preventing sod from turning brown, and how to revive brown sod.

Why is my new sod turning brown?

If your newly-installed sod is spotting brown patches/coloration in certain areas, the cause could be any of the factors discussed below:

1. Lack of water

New sod needs more water than established turf to facilitate root establishment and normal growth. If you fail to water your recently-installed sod at least twice a day for the entire first-week post-installation, you risk killing some (if not most) of the developing roots due to insufficient soil water.

This eventually leads to the browning of the leaf blades of the grass plants whose roots are most affected. But how do I water new sod? Failing to soak up at least the top half of the soil every time you irrigate your turfgrass can also result in browning, even if you stick to the aforementioned watering frequency.

2. Excessive soil Nitrogen

If you applied fertilizer to your lawn soil after sod installation, then chances are high that this is the reason your new turfgrass is turning brown (including slow-release fertilizers). Developing root systems of newly-installed sod are normally too shallow to effectively absorb the excessive nitrogen nutrients infused into the soil through fertilizer application.

The excessive fertilizer burns the developing roots, consequently causing the blades of the grass to turn brown. What’s more, when you buy commercial sod, it’s usually pre-fed with ample fertilizer to see it through the anchorage period. Adding more fertilizer- therefore- results in excess.

3. Premature mowing

If you failed to take a root establishment test before your initial mowing and noticed brown spots on your turf, the most likely cause would be mowing too early. Mowing stresses new sod due to the weight of the mower and will result in brown patches if undertaken too soon. But when is the best time to mow a new sod.

4. Soil compaction

Very compact soil inhibits the water from seeping into the soil and the roots of the growing grass. This consequently causes the grass blades to turn brown due to drought/lack of water.

5. Poor Installation

If you installed the sod yourself and have never done this before, the grass is likely turning brown due to improper installation, as the sod probably lacks proper contact with the ground beneath it.

The air pocket left between the sod and the soil inhibits proper intake of moisture and nutrients by the roots, consequently browning the grass blades.

Sometimes, you’ll still have air pockets created between, even after proper installation by professionals due to the soil settling post-installation. You should therefore check for soil settling when diagnosing the causes of brown spots on your new turfgrass.

6. Pest Infestation

Various fungal organisms and insect pests thrive on feeding off newly-grown soft sod that’s still soft. This results in browning as the feed on the blade sap.

Can brown sod be saved?

Yes, brown sod can be saved and restored to its normal, lush, green appearance. The best reviving strategies take into account the cause of browning.

However, as with any problem, prevention is always better than cure, and there exist several ways in which you can prevent your newly-established sod from turning brown, as discussed below:

To prevent your sod from dying/turning brown due to water deficiency, always ensure to water at the recommended intervals and until the top half of the soil is entirely soaked.
To prevent your sod from browning due to excessive soil nitrogen, avoid using fertilizers during the root establishment period (typically, the first two weeks post-installation).
To prevent your sod from turning brown due to air pockets caused by poor installation, avoid DIY sod installation and- instead- contract a landscaping professional to get the job done right.

How do I revive my dying sod?

You have first to identify the causes of new sod growing; you can fix and save your lawn through the following;

Reviving sod browning due to soil compaction- compact soil is typically too hard and results in poor drainage that causes water to flow away rather than soak into the soil. To revive sod that has turned brown due to too compact soil, use a screwdriver or a similar sharp object to open up holes or aerate your soil, allowing water to drain into the soil and into the roots easily.
Reviving sod that is browning due to air pockets between the sod and the ground– lift up the parts of the sod that are browning and fill up the space/air pocket between it and the soil with compost or topsoil to establish contact with the soil. This will consequently create a pathway for nutrient absorption through the roots.
Reviving sod that is browning due to premature mowing– if you had cut your grass too soon, you can revive it by skipping a few scheduled mowings and allowing it to grow a bit taller than usual. This will allow it time to offset the initial negative effects caused by premature mowing.
Reviving sod browning due to pest infestation– the best way to revive grass under fungal/pest attack is to eliminate the insects/fungi. You can visit your local agricultural extension office for guidelines on the best pesticides and fungicides for grass insect pests and fungi.

Original article posted: https://bit.ly/4e2RVUT – credits: Chris Wheeler

Lawn Aeration As Part Of Your Yard Care Routine

tuckturf on April 17, 2024

A well watered lawn should have thick, springy grass that bounces back when you tread on it and shouldn’t wilt or have a blue-grey tinge to it.

Feed your lawn

If your lawn is looking a little dowdy it may be time to give it a feed and top up the essential nutrients in the soil that it needs to be strong and healthy. The best time to feed the lawn is after any frosts have gone and when the soil or warming up and wet during the Springtime. Any earlier than this and you run the risk that newly encouraged growth in the grass gets hit by a late frost and damages it, leaving you in a worse state than when you started. A slow release fertilizer applied during Spring will give a drip feed of nutrients throughout the Summer months.

Depending on your needs and the state of the lawn you need to make a choice between liquid (fast release) and granule (slow release) based feeds as well as different preparations based on the season. In all cases, getting a push along feed spreader is a cheap and easy way to ensure even coverage and to dramatically speed up the work.

Mow the lawn

Your de-thatched, aerated, watered and fed lawn should now be growing voraciously and brings us to the last and most time consuming lawn care task – mowing the lawn.

To keep the grass in tip-top condition and growing back strongly after being mowed, you should aim to cut only the top third of the blade. Almost all mowers have a height adjustment for the blade, usually a screw or screws on the underside of many mowers, which make this easy to adjust. Cutting too little results in a never ending chore every weekend to keep it in check but, conversely, taking too much off in one go reduces the ‘green’ area of the grass blade where the grass converts sunlight into energy via the chlorophyll (which gives it the green color) and can leave the grass weak and unable to bounce back so thickly and quickly.

There are many types of mower and which one you go for will depend on the size of your lawn, budget and the type of ground and slopes you have. For the small lawn owner, a manual push mower may suffice and is good exercise but impractical for anything of reasonable size where an electric or petrol powered mower will come into its own. These can be hover or cylinder mowers. For those with the largest lawns nothing but a ride-on mower will do. These miniature tractors come with a variety of attachments and features, some even with a CD player to keep you singing along as you mow but all are at a price!

Luckily, mowing is usually only required in the Spring-Autumn months as the grass grows more slowly or becomes dormant over the Winter, especially in more Northern climates where frost and potentially snow are regular visitors. During the peak months you may need to mow a vibrant healthy lawn every two weeks, but in many ways this is a great sign of a truly healthy lawn.

Summary

It should be easy to see how aeration could be missed when watering, feeding and mowing can have such an immediate and obvious impact but a solid lawn aeration routine can really pick your lawn up and make it easier to manage and more fun to enjoy. You may have to mow a little more often but with less thatch, fewer weeds and diseases and a full and lush covering of grass you can use it more and spend less time on the other maintenance tasks that could otherwise become a chore.

Article Source: https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Jack_D_Turner/1133195

A Guide To Preparing Soils For New Lawns

tuckturf on April 15, 2024

A Guide To Preparing Soils For New Lawns

No matter the situation or reasons for wanting to install a new lawn at our homes, a newly turfed yard area adds tremendous beauty and landscape value to our home environment. Not to mention the added resale value to the property itself, when the yard has naturally turfed lawn areas.

Today’s modern and highly improved lawn varieties are another reason to replace an existing lawn which may be in poor condition. No matter the reason, whether to improve an existing lawn, to tame a wild jungle garden etc, installing a new lawn is a great improvement for any yard.

The most important aspect to consider when laying any new lawn, is also the one aspect which many people often neglect the most, which can then lead to many poor health problems in the future for our new lawns, which we had such high hopes for when we installed them. And that one most important aspect of all is our lawn soils.

Begin Soil Preparation In Advance

The yard area which is to be used for the new lawn should be prepared weeks in advance of laying any new sod. This gives the soil a chance to break down any nutrients that were added to the soil prior to the lawn being laid, as well as giving opportunity to allow any weed seeds that are dormant in the soil to propagate so they can be removed by us before the sod goes down.

Whether old turf needs to be removed or the yard area to be used needs to be cleaned up in any way, we do this first, and ensure the lawn area is completely clean of all debris, rocks, weeds and all other foreign matter, until we are left with a clean working area where the lawn is to be laid.

Soil evaluation should be considered at this time also. Any poor soils can have new top soil added at this time, while the weeks of rest period for the lawn area will also help in the soil compaction and levelling before the sod is put down.

Likewise, sandy or clay based soils can be further improved at this optimal time.

Natural organic or manure based soil improvers could be added at this time also, and raked into the soil and watered in. Once again, the rest time for the soil will aid in breaking down these valuable nutrients into the soil before the sod goes down. Also, new lawns should never be laid on top of freshly manured soils, as this has the potential to burn roots of the sod. So allow time for these fertilizers to break down first.

During the lead up of a few weeks prior to the lawn being installed, keep the soil moist, which allows the

added organic supplements to decompose, but also allows weeds to germinate in the lawn area. We want these weed seeds to germinate in the soil, so that the weeds can be removed from the soil before the lawn is installed. Which is far better than waiting until our new lawn is in our yard flourishing and then we see those dreaded weeds popping up out of nowhere, only to be treated with a herbicide later. Best to remove weeds in the soil prior to the lawn going down, and to have a plan to do just that.

Levelling out of the soil would also be done in this time, to ensure as flat and even a surface area as possible. The occasional watering or rainfall at this time would also help to compact the soil a little, while showing us where any soft spots are in the area, which may need to be filled or levelled further before the new sod is installed. Ultimately, a heavy roller should be used for best results in compacting the soil so that it is flat and even, without any soft spots that compress under foot when walked upon.

Final Soil Preparation Prior To Laying New Sod

After we have done all soil preparations weeks prior, and allowed the soil to rest, and removed any weeds which may have emerged in the meantime, it is now time for final preparation before the new sod goes down.

And at this late stage, all that is required is really a final levelling out of the soil, and soil compaction if it hasn’t been done already – using a heavy roller which can be hired from a hire shop. These rollers are often have cylindrical drums that are filled with water by the homeowner to achieve their desired weight, and then pushed over the soil area to aid in compaction.

Ideally the final soil preparation should be done one day prior to laying the new sod. That way we are all prepared to lay the sod, without any distractions whatsoever on the day it arrives at our property.

Summary

Of all the new lawns I’ve installed over many years, I’ve found this system to be most beneficial to aid in gaining the best possible results when laying all new lawns. I’ve also witnessed the results of using the quick and easy methods, and the difference in end results of lawn quality can be amazing to see.

Proper soil preparation which begins weeks prior to laying any new sod has so many outstanding benefits for so many years into the future, and should be the only way a new lawn is planned and prepared for in any yard.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/9419896

Spring Lawn Care And Maintenance

tuckturf on April 1, 2024

The inclement weather conditions of winter makes a lawn weary. Following a few simple steps will help the lawn recover its lush green coloration and flourish. Raking, repairing damaged areas, renovating the lawn’s appearance and correct fertilizer applications restore a lawn to its pre-winter glory.

New Lawn Growth

During the cold winter months, grass enters a state of dormancy. It will cease growing which makes its general appearance become ragtag. Its lack of growth during the winter also makes it more susceptible to damage from freezing, drainage issues and snow accumulation. In order for the grass to flourish and grow correctly, the winter damage must be fixed.

Clear Debris

Before undertaking spring lawn care, allow the area to dry out. A wet or soggy lawn can sustain damage when cultivated. The roots will be easily pulled from the soil and the blades bent or broke. Once the lawn has dried out, it should be thoroughly raked to help aerate the soil. Raking will remove accumulated winter debris. It will also open up the soil and the grass blades to create air circulation. Good air circulation around the crown of the plants and each blade of grass will help prevent fungal problems from developing. A basic hard tine rake works adequately to help remove dead grass plants and lawn debris or a lawn vacuum or leaf blower for larger lawns can help with larger lawns.

Post-Winter Scarification

Moss and thatch buildup can occur from the long winter months. A lawn that suffers excessive thatch or moss buildup will benefit from a scarification treatment. Scarification should never take place if there is still any danger of spring frosts. Consider performing scarification in mid-April or later. If the lawn has excessive moss, use a moss killer two to three weeks before scarification. The lawn should be newly mown and moderately wet to successfully scarify it. Use a hand spring bok rake or a powered scarifier. The goal is to tear up the thatch, dead grass plants and any weeds. The grass will usually suffer extensive visual damage after scarification. If bare patches occur, consider patching the areas by reseeding.

Weeds

Spring is the ideal time to address pending weed. In regions where crab grass is a problem, apply a pre-emergence crabgrass weed killer to the lawn during the first weeks of April. Avoid using a crabgrass weed killer that contains fertilizers. Fertilizing the lawn too early will cause a weak root system. After applying the pre-emergence weed killer, water the lawn with about 1/2 inch of water. Mowing the lawn to a height of 2 inches will also help control spring weeds. Crabgrass seeds begin to germinate when the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees Fahrenheit so treatment with a pre-emergence weed killer will help prevent the seeds from germinating.

Fertilizer

Fertilizing in the spring replenishes the grass plant’s food supply. The fertilizer will encourage the grass to develop healthy, new growth and a strong root system. An adequate, balanced fertilizer will create a thick lawn that will be able to more easily combat weeds by choking them out. Apply fertilizer when the grass begins to show signs of breaking dormancy. Grass roots will grow when the temperature is between 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Its top growth will develop when the temperature reaches 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Never fertilize a lawn too early in the spring because the new growth may suffer damage if a late spring frost should hit. Use a balanced spring lawn fertilizer and avoid high-nitrogen mixes. A high-nitrogen based lawn fertilizer will encourage the lawn to grow and develop a deep green coloration but a shallow root system. The shallow roots will be unable to withstand a summer drought.

Apply fertilizer applications to the lawn in mid-May. Use a fertilizer that offers at least 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn space. The fertilizer label will usually have general application guidelines. After applying the fertilizer, be sure to saturate the lawn to prevent the grass blades from sustaining damage from the fertilizer. Nitrogen can burn grass blades. A slow release nitrogen fertilizer has the least chance of accidentally harming the grass.

New Season Overseeding

If the lawn suffers from bare spots or a patchy appearance it can benefit from spring seeding. Lawn seeds will not germinate until the soil reaches 65 degrees Fahrenheit, so avoid seeding the lawn if it remains too cold. The ideal time to overseed an existing lawn is usually after mid-April. Seed Kentucky bluegrass at a rate of 1.5 pounds per 1,000 square feet, use 3 pounds of fine fescue grass seeds per 1,000 square feet or use 6 pounds of tall fescue per 1,000 feet. Spreading straw mulch across the newly laid seeds will help keep them from blowing away and will also help keep the seeds moist. Regularly water the newly laid seeds and avoid allowing them to dry out. The seeds require even moisture to successfully germinate. Usually one bale of straw per 1,000 feet will adequately protect the seeds. When seeding a lawn in the spring, consider using a starter fertilizer that contains Tupersan to avoid a crabgrass infestation.

Look Forward To A Green Lawn All Year

With only a bit of spring care, a lawn can look amazing by summer. It will also help prepare the lawn for the following winter by encouraging it to produce a strong, deep root system and store valuable nutrients.

Article Source: https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Jack_D_Turner/1133195

Global Sports Turf Market Growth, Trend, Forecast To 2028

tuckturf on February 17, 2024

basis. The sports turf report gives a thorough view of the industry share together with guidelines, to the grounds of sections.

Inquiry Here For Detail Report @ https://market.us/report/sports-turf-market/#inquiry

Questions have been answered at Sports Turf report:

1. Which will be the niches at which organizations profiling with sports turf plans, and also advancements should set a presence?

2. What exactly will be the growth rate?

3. Which exactly will be the sports turf forecast rates for your economy altogether and also for each segment?

4. What size is the global sports turf market opportunity?

5. Which exactly will be the best application?

6. How their worth fluctuations from manufacturing brands that are different?

In this study, the years considered to estimate the market size of sports turf are as follows:

History Year: 2012-2017

Estimated Year: 2018

Forecast Year 2019 to 2028

Table of Content:

1. Sports Turf Market Introduction

2. Sports Turf Industry Executive Summary

3. Global Sports Turf Market Overview (Dynamics, Drivers, Opportunities, Restraints, Challenges, and more details)

4,5,6. Global Sports Turf Market Value (US$ Mn), Share (%), and Growth Rate (%) Comparison by Product Type, by Application and by Region 2012-2028

7. Global Sports Turf Market Competitive Landscape, Market Share Analysis, and Company Profiles (Sakata, Monsanto, Syngenta, Advanta, Asia Seed, East-West Seed, Mahindra Agri, Takii, Gansu Dunhuang, Dongya Seed, Namdhari Seeds, Bayer, Limagrain and VoloAgri)

8. Assumptions and Acronyms

9. Research Methodology

Source: https://www.marketwatch.com/press-release/global-sports-turf-market-growth-trend-forecast-to-2028-2019-02-04

To Sod or to Seed

tuckturf on March 17, 2023

To sod or to seed is a question that has been asked for many years. There are several factors that must be considered when making this decision for your home; initial budget, size and shape of the lawn, your timeline, and the effort you are willing to put into the job.
Time & Aesthetics
Seed may be initially much less expensive, but it is labor intensive. It often requires knowledge of the seed and soil, including the soil preparation, and has little guarantee of your desired result. It often takes 6 to 12 months for seed to grow into an established lawn and up to 2 years for a newly seeded lawn to grow and fill in to a beautiful, thick lawn. Seeds can blow away in the wind, dry out or be washed away, not to mention just fail to germinate. Weeds also mix well with new seed so weed prevention and maintenance are required.

Sod looks great immediately after it is installed. It requires less soil preparation and will mitigate significantly more potential soil erosion than waiting for seed to germinate. You will often have an established, healthy lawn in about 2 weeks after the sod is installed. Young grass shoots and blades are very delicate and require proper care to mature. Sod is harvested as mature grass that has strong, healthy roots that just need to grow into your existing soil. Lawns with significant slopes are prone to soil erosion and very difficult to seed and properly water.
Value

According to several real estate sources, a well landscaped lawn can add significant value to your home. Sod can add anywhere from an additional 50% over cost to as much as five times the cost depending on the current lawn condition.

Selling

If you are selling your home, your front landscaping is the first thing that is seen. For a lawn that needs considerable attention, sod will provide an instant upgrade to your curb appeal and has proven to gain a return upon sale.

Cost
Initially, Sod and professional sod installation can get expensive, especially if you have a large lawn that needs to be covered. Although sod costs up to about $1.00 – $1.50 per square foot more than seed. You must also consider the cost of the soil preparation, post seed care, special fertilizers, and the time before you have the lawn you desire if you choose to seed your lawn.
Sod Wins

The benefits of professionally installed Sod far outweigh that of seed. The cost of seeding is much less from the start. However, once you consider the additional fertilizer and maintenance required, cost over the next 12 to 24 months is negligible. An instant, lush lawn that requires much less effort is its own reward.